Friday, July 27, 2007

Eurogays, Living in a cave and the Costa Del Crime

So after 8 and a half months of backpacking, bunking, ducking and diving we eventually boarded our Air Iberia pigeon from Lima to Madrid and in 15 hours time would be back in Europe, only one hour away from Greenwich Mean Time. Time does indeed fly, but god knows how Air Iberia do, they have to be one of the worst airlines I have ever had the misfortune of flying with. Can you believe that Spains national carrier still has those TV's that everyone has to share and only shows one film on a 15 hour flight! And that's just the half of it. Mind you you can still smoke, no you can't really, but it wouldn't have surprised me if you could as I felt like I was being slung back ten years into a Spanish frenzy of Sunglass wearing, shoulder jumpered, pastel panted arrogancias and all they were lacking was the customary Marlboro Red drooping from their lips.

Spanish efficiency continued upon touching down in Madrid although we were lucky that it was only 2 hours before the baggage boys could be arsed to bring us our bags. The track next to us had already been there for 4 hours with still no sign. Siesta whatever, herherher Ingleesh Peegs!
I hadn't been to Madrid before and I tell you I was bowled over. I fell in love with the place immediately which may have had something to do with the weather but also to me Madrid sums up all that is good with Spain. The buildings are majestic, the people are beautiful and walk with grace, elegance and a sense of superiority hard to find anywhere else. The weather is deliciously warm, the bars and plazas are magnetically inviting and the whole buzz of the city is pulsating. We had arrived on the weekend of Eurogay, the Gay Pride annual march where she/he's, mincers and madams skip merrily down the Gran Via and then get well and truly trousered in a party to top all parties.
It really was a great welcome back to the warmth and reality of Europe and poverty was nowhere to be seen which was nice to see. It was a great buffer before heading back home. However we weren't stopping there, we needed more sun and so with car duly hired we headed south and first stop was Granada where a friend of a friend had very kindly offered to let us stay in his cave for three days. It may sound slightly disconcerting but beggars can't be choosers and when we got there we found that the cave had been converted into a home and we were staying directly opposite Alhambra in the beautiful suburbs of Granada. It was absolute bliss, the weather was in the high 30's and we managed to sneek into a hotel 2 days running and use their pool and loungers. The experienced travellers had no fear now and blagging had become pretty much part of day to day life. Never really been a problem anyway!

To finish our Spanish invasion we headed to Puerto Banus darling to join the costa del cockneys and the rest of the 80's Brit gangsters and see my mate simsy for a few days. He had sorted out a villa and 13 of us ploughed into this mock Espagnol version of Big Brother and had an absolute riot. We partied, lounged, danced and lounged some more but mostly we drank and as we had arrived bang on time to experience the fiesta we also made twats of ourselves. With most of the locals being English anyway it barely mattered but the fairground was a riot, the girls turned it into a drunken impromptu hen night and I won two teddy bears on a shooting gallery for the first time in my life! It was sad to leave everybody and head back to Madrid but we had a car to take back and a couple of days left before our return home. Spain was a perfect tonic before the sad gin that was awaiting in England. The next two days were quite solemn as the grim reality of both me and Emily returning back to England hit home but then again after 9 months away there's no grounds for complaint.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Incas and Yanks

So the end of chapter 3 was almost upon us. We had shivered through Chile, ridden the length and bredth of Argy, bundled through Bolivia, nipped into Uruguay and chilled in Brazil. Peru was the final stop and with thoughts of the roasting sun in Spain we legged it straight to Cusco and headed straight for the big one. No point pissing around, it was Machu Picchu and those talked about Inca ruins we were after a glimpse of and as soon as we arrived at our family run guest house it was time to book the train up to the ruins and go and see the bugger.


Now I didn't realise it was a 4 hour train ride to get to this sacred place, it makes you wonder how the bloody Incas got up there in the first place, I mean I'm not overly sure the trains were running back in those days and this place is so high up you're virtually kipping in the clouds. But the train ride was painless and gave you time to sit and watch the world go by, admire the beauty of this land and have a good panoramic look at the tourist mecca that is Cusco.

Every man and his dog had decided to see Machu Picchu this day and I was a bit surprised how many of the buggers were American, and I mean stereotypical brash, baseball cap wearing, salad dodging, I love Peru T-Shirt wearing folk. They were everywhere and there was just no getting away from them. Now don't get me wrong through my travels and meeting many of our migratory cousins along the way I had changed my views on the US and would go so far to say I was actually developing a liking for them but my god was this view to change over the next 8 hours.

Allow me to state this first, Machu Picchu is gorgeous, the Inca ruins are amazing and there is no doubt that this is truly one of the greatest works of the human hand I have and will ever see. But imagine seeing this and almost every 10 yards the view being spoiled by a chubby yank shouting "Honey get one of me and the Llamas", You want fries with that tubby? I'm telling you I half expected to see the golden arches up there. It put a bit of a dampener on the day and clarified that the only way to see this and truly enjoy it is to do the 4 day Inca Trail which was something that we did just not have the time and money to do and also something that needs to be booked at least 3 months prior. Booking 3 days prior is tricky enough so you can guess that this option was never likely to be a path I would be following.

Post Picchu we headed off to Lima desperate to get to the sun and sand of Spain and after being refused a standby flight on day one, we managed to get one the day after giving us 11 days to chill in Spain and try our damndest to get back to England with at least a little bit of colour in the cheeks.
Anyone for a Brazilian?

So after waving adios to Smithers, Big Si, Joker and Caz, myself and Em set sail to Brazil on the absolute dogs knackers of a luxury bus. I shit you not the leather recliners turned into beds, we were served a 3 course meal and they even had English films en route. Bit different to the night bus to Tooting I can tell you!

First stop in Brazil was to have a quick shifty at Iguazu falls and what a hell of a water feature it is. Titchmarsh would have a field day here and it pisses all over Niagara for sheer size and beauty. There's almost 200 different falls and you can't fail to be impressed, even if you have seen more bloody waterfalls in the last 9 months than most people will in a lifetime. A bit of jetboating through them added to the fun and then it was off to the crime capital of the world to try and dodge bullets in Rio.

Now you may think i'm exaggerating with my bullet dodging quote but the night we arrived lo and behold a bloke was shot dead 20 yards from our hostel! No word of a lie, and one of the young English lads from our place tried to give him mouth to mouth and watched him die in his arms! Nice intro but c'est la vie and next day we awoke to the sun shining so Em dusted off the bikini and I found my one remaining pair of ageing speedos and it was off to the beach to try some power tanning. Ipanema beach is fantastic, if only for the people watching quality although for some reason we set up camp in campsville, right between the rainbow flags in the middle of gay central. I have never seen so many stacked and vain raving queens in all of my life, it was like being on the England football team bus. The blokes were strutting around lording it for all they were worth and creeping onto the beach with beer gut proudly slumped I felt like I had clearly turned up at the wrong party.
Needless to say the next few days saw the reintroduction of exercise into the freel diet and the time in Rio was sensational. We had some good nights out but mainly chilled on the beach and had some real rest and relaxation time. Visting Christo redempto and looking over all of Rio was amazing and we also stopped in the national park at a spot where all the murderers discard their dead bodies. The place reeked so bad I almost projectiled my breakfast up and it was a harsh reminder that this city is clearly not one that you want to be strolling around in alone.

The whistle stop tour of Brazil was over far too soon and the place definitely needs to be redone in detail. The one shite thing about Rio is the bloody airport though and after 20 hours of waiting for a flight we eventually got out of there on a mission but still on schedule and headed back to La Paz en route to our final destination in South America. The land of the Incas and magical Macchu Pichu were destined to be the piece de la resistance of this chapter.

Monday, June 25, 2007

More bloody poems!

Thankyou - road to Salta, Arg 15/5/07

She is happy I hope, I´d like to think
Looking down on me now with a nod and a wink
When she was my age she had a boy of ten
But as people say, times were different then
Not really the times but circumstance for sure
Her life was a sacrifice made to open the door
The door to a world full of opportunity and hope
She molded her boy and made sure he would cope
And now as I travel I think back to those days
And get lost in my thoughts in a mesmeric gaze
For a woman so young to give her life just for me
It´s hard to explain how lucky one can be
People look at my life and reflect on the bad
Lost both parents young, it must be so sad
But the truth is that everyone will suffer a loss
And it´s hard sometimes to get this point across
My mums life had one purpose that was to allow me
To live my life to the full, have every opportunity
And sat here in Argentina with time just to think
I can feel her nod and her comforting wink.

Rio Beach Life - 16/7/07 - Rio De Janeiro

Lying in Rio in bed by half eight
Bit dangerous here to be going out late
By day the beach buzzes with glamour and glitz
Musclemen, posing pouches, g-strings and fake tits
Cheese wire bikinis part J-Lo type cheeks
Tiny cotton triangles cover Amazonian peaks
But the men on the beach are ten times more vain
And have lifetime subscriptions to instant bulk gain
I´ve never seen so many geezers flexing their pecs
I feel great with my gut hanging over my kecks!
So this morning I decided to go for a run
And in thirty degree heat it was no bloody fun
I´m probably weighing in the same as when I left
But my fitness is shocking and I was soon out of breath
Being a stubborn bastard I fought through the pain
But it´s gonna take a while to get it back again
So i´ve promised myself now i´ll run every day
And get back to London ready to play
We´ll see how it go´s only 3 weeks remain
But for now i´ll breath in and keep praying for rain.

Shrooms - 16/7/07 - Rio de Janeiro

Three weeks on the piss and the body is broken
But there´s one challenge left before goodbyes are spoken
Christmas on Phi Phi was the best that i´ve had
And New Year on Krabi was totally mad
We all caught the boat for a last final fling
Full moon as the smurfs with the girls on our wing
Our bodies were hurting but the spirit was strong
The journey was shocking and was taking so long
But we got there at last and found somewhere to kip
Lost the random Aussie and went for a dip
The island was rammed and the atmosphere rocking
The next few days would be absolutely shocking
Back on Pha Ngan and back on the shrooms
Time floating away, the background slamming out tunes
The girls were all giggling and getting drawn in
Then hallucinations took over and grew from within
We sunk to the beach to join the throng
My legs were so heavy and I felt like a mong
The rest of the night went downhill pretty quick
Tobey disappeared looking ghost white and sick
When he returned he´d freaked and lost the plot
Been found naked in his room in a tight little spot
Sat with no clue where the light was in his room
Saved by a security guard who put him out of his doom
Finally it wore off and it was back on the beers
Time to party and dance and forget all the tears
The girls turned up battered and surrounded by men
But at last we were all back together again
If this was the warm up the full moon would be mad
I didn´t know if i´d make it my guts were so bad
Twelve shits in one day is just not fucking right
My body was crying but it had to hold tight
One more night as a smurf at Januarys full moon
The respite from the toxins would be coming soon
Kate, Jodie and John all arrived for the night
And it all started civilised going out for a bite
After that came the buckets, we prepared for the worst
Me and Tobey donned nappies and turned blue into smurfs
As we walked on the beack we were instant superstars
Everyone wanting a photo, they came running from bars
The night was fantastic and we were dancing like gods
Two giant blue beacons in an ocean of bods
But the buckets kicked in I couldn´t take any more
After a valiant effort I was back home by four
We´d partied so hard I could hardly believe
That we´d all made it through and it was now time to leave.

Permanence 17/6/07 Rio de Janeiro

For Christmas this year I got a tattoo
I don´t think anyone thought i´d follow it through
But on 4th January I sat in the chair
To get my new mark that would always be there
I´d played with the thought for a number of years
But always dismissed it due to too many fears
The main thing being I didn´t know what to get
And I didn´t want it looking like i´d done it for a bet
But when I saw Tobey´s the vision was clear
And I talked to him over a smoke and a beer
I´ve always been a gambler attracted by risk
And as we sat chatting we slowly got pissed
I looked at the dice on the Swedish tattoo
And there in that moment I just knew what to do
One month later fast forward back in the chair
I´m trying to pretend that I don´t have a care
As the bamboo cuts through and pierces the skin
There is no going back now the ink is within
The hangover helps to cut out the pain
But I can´t help but wonder if I´m going insane
So much on my mind as I lie on the bed
And then Tobey appears to help clear my head
After only two hours the job is complete
And eager yet nervous I spring to my feet
Has the 5ft Thai artist wrote twat on my shoulder?
Is this going to backfire when I´m wrinkled and older?
He holds up the mirror to show me his work
And I can´t help but notice his confident smirk
I can see the tattoo peeping back in the glass
And am happy to say that the boy got a pass
I was pleased but then again it still may be shit
I had to ask the girls if I looked like a tit
In their best honest voices they said it looked great
And so next time its knuckles and the words love and hate!

Iguazu airport, Brasil 12/6/07

Going back to a bar,
Will I go very far?
Ideas spring from my mind
Cannot wait for the grind.
The glint has returned and is sharp in my eye
I can feel it within that my time´s almost nigh
Seven years grounding in the London rat race
Now it´s time to branch out, get a name for this face
I´ve seen half the world and steadied that fire
Mind is free of stress, spirits never been higher
In less than a month i´ll be back in my home
With no need anymore to continue to roam
I´ve found what I want and I know it within
Now let´s get the fuck back and let good times begin.

Broken - Hong Kong - 31st March 2007

Wandering the streets in a booze related haze
No idea where I am in this sprawling urban maze
The last memory from a bar six hours ago
Now i´m coming to my senses where i´ve been I do not know
My clothes are musty and i´m missing a card and some cash
I have a vague recollection of waking up in some trash
If I could remember the times when my memory has gone
I think i´d be a different person and my drinking would be done
As I get to Gaz´s flat and try to work out the key
There´s no sign of Mr Wilde, god knows where he might be
I feel shattered and tired of getting into this state
In this refined moment everything about myself I hate.

Queenstown 2/5/07 Plane to Santiago, Chile

Too much time on their hands clearly off their tits
With one key aim to give all tourists the shits
Queenstown has a reputation as an adrenaline feeder
Extreme sport heaven, mad bastard world leader
With more things to jump off than I could even write down
You will definitely leave here with your pants a shade of brown!
Traditionally a ski resort the place is very, very small
So why on earth it has 3 bungy jumps is anybodys call
Add to that canyon swing, fly by wire, skydive as well
It´s no wonder everybody looks nervous as hell
But the atmosphere is buzzing and testosterone flows
This is where boys become men and confidence grows
Just a minute of madness and making that leap
Puts the world in perspective, instills belief you´ll always keep
This town bonds individuals and brings them together
Under the true kiwi mantra of ´fuck it bro I´ll do whatever!´
And once you´ve made the step and all is alright
There is no better place to party all night.

Flying solo - 5/3/07 - Somewhere in New Zealand

So many new people, so many new faces
As I travel around to so many new places
Friends come and go, some you´ll see again
Some just stop in for the now and the then
It´s all just so easy, not a smidgeon of fuss
No problem sharing the experience with some random from the bus
But to see all these places with someone so close
Is the thing that I miss and I envy the most
The couples who do it, the few who stay together
Will have so much to cherish for ever and ever
Pictures can never capture the thrill of being there
The smell of the ocean or the magic in the air
The beat of the bass on Ko Pha Ngan beach
The view from Tongariro as the summit is reached
The smell of green curry from a Bangkok roadside
And the noise of the bugs scuttling round your bedside
The mouth watering taste of fresh New Zealand lamb
The feeling of waking up and not giving a damn
The panic and fear as you´re tied to a rope
With a fifty metre freefall armed with nothing but hope
The pain of being alone when things don´t go so well
Frustration of seeing something great and having no-one to tell
The joy of starting a dance off when everyone joins in
Excitement of turning up in a country not knowing where to begin
The fear of losing your belongings miles from home
In the middle of nowhere with no credit on your phone
Embarassment of cracking a joke and having nobody laugh
Amusement of driving along having an elephant cross your path
So many random feelings in so many random places
I´d love to share them all with some more familiar faces
But to travel the world alone I would recommend to all
No emotion is left untouched and you will have a bloody ball!

No dad - Hong Kong - 28/3/07

Other people knew him so why didn´t I?
Sometimes it makes me want to sit down and cry
Just to share a beer and some informal chat
But there´ll never be any fucking chance of that
Cos all he wanted was a needle in his arm
Oblivious to the fact it would cause so much harm
I´ve pretended that I didn´t mind he wasn´t there
And fifteen years later I realise I really do care
You meet so many people who have a bond with their dad
But the fact I never did is slowly driving me mad
I hope i´ll be different if my day does come
I can´t wait to sit down and have a beer with my son
I surround myself with mates, always have, always will
But the pain that he left, it burns in me still
Why didn´t he care? Why did he run away?
Just to see him right now, i´ve got so much to say
I don´t even know what beer he would drink
And if he saw me, what he would think
There´s no doubt part of him lives on in me
I clearly inherited the addictive personality
But to have some questions answered and clear up some stuff
Just two hours in a bar, that would be enough.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Random Poems!

21/6/07 - Flight to Santa Cruz from Sao Paolo

It´s exciting now i´ll be home in three weeks
Away from the travels and away from the freaks
To be honest most people are nothing but nice
Yet after 9 months of small talk i´m paying the price
Fantasies of sitting with friends in the pub
With familiar banter and some good English grub
Bangers and mash drowned with gravy and mustard
The thought of that now is getting me flustered
But friends are the thing that i´ve truly missed most
Then not far behind is a good Sunday roast
Everyone says that our English food is shit
But fuck Johnny foreigner I bloody miss it
Salt n Vinegar discos and real fucking sweets
In the 20 countries i´ve been to nothing competes
2 quid for worcester sauce wheat crunchies in Sydney
I was getting so desperate i´d have given a kidney!
And why is there no salt n vinegar in Asia
Their lack of imagination would truly amaze you
There´s cash to be made, you heard it first here
Set a crisp factory up, you´ll be minted in a year
I never thought i´d say it but i´m craving routine
After 9 months of freedom and all the places i´ve been
I really can´t wait to get back to a job
To get back in the gym and the familiar slog
I´ve hardly played sport all the time i´ve been away
And before I left home it was almost every day
So it´s straight back to rugger and the 5 a side beat
Mind you 10 minutes in i´ll be dead on my feet
London is calling from a far away town
But still 3 weeks to go and time to get brown
Can´t wait to see you all in early July
But until then amigos I bid you goodbye!

Home time - Rio 17/6/07

I really just can´t be arsed anymore
With the idle chit chat it´s a fucking bore
I´ve been away too long the enthusiasms gone
In all honesty i´m pretty much done
Everywhere you go it´s the same opening line
"Where have you been? Oh your trips just like mine!"
I just want to be sat in the pub with my mates
Talking about shit and the last week of dates
The gap year tree huggers have finished me off
Quit at the top when you know it´s enough
The last three days have been really long and hard
And i´m slowly turning into a social retard
It´s just not me and it´s time to move on
Get back to London and back having some fun
After this long away it´s been a great ride
But for the first time i´m homesick and it´s burning inside
There´s so many people I can´t wait to see
But most of all I can´t wait to get back being me
As Off would put it "Enough of this shit!
Get back to SW and get on with it!"

HK7 - Rio 17/6/07

Lifesize superhero downing a hot pie
Laughing so hard I did actually cry
Kinky policewomen waving truncheons at me
So much smoke in the bogs I can´t see myself pee
Giant jugs of beer fly through the air
Bouncing from heads but no-one has a care
Twenty thousand people all out of their mind
Every corner you turn no idea what you´ll find
Pirates and french maids shout abuse at each other
So much love in the place every man is your brother
This is crazy, the biggest fancy dress show on earth
Everyone shouting and screaming for all that it´s worth
People queue for hours to enter this arena
Complete and utter carnage such a pleasure to have been there
South stand, Hong Kong Sevens, arrive early, find a seat
Then sit back and enjoy, feast your eyes on this treat
There´s rugby taking place but you wont notice that
Too busy downing beer out of a cast iron divers hat
3 says of solid partying that you will never ever forget
Although you probably wont remember any of the people you met
It will hurt - almost kill you, but it´s worth all the pain
Because an experience like this you will never have again!

Skydive - 21/6/07 Take off Santa Cruz to La Paz

What a way to feel alive
Taupo, New Zealand, my first skydive
After bungy jumping the day before
Confidence was high I was hungry for more
No messing about we gave them our cash
Watched a quick vid and were out in a flash
Into our suits, some last minute tips
Bend like a banana and thrust out your hips
We chose our tunes for the dvd
Quick interview and then we were ready
The two Emilys sat opposite me
Si had been before so it was just us three
As we boarded the plane painted flourescent pink
The ten minute flight gave us all time to think
I was cool as ice with no fear at all
And couldn´t wait for the pending freefall
My Canadian instructor was an absolute dude
Everything was mad, wicked and rude!
We chatted away as we climbed in the sky
The feeling was good and excitement was high
I was first out and went on to the edge
Arched my back, looked out with feet under the ledge
As quick as a whippet I was out of the plane
Adrenaline rushed to my heart and my brain
Not a cloud in the sky, a beautiful world below
45 seconds of freefall was "Sweet as bro!"
The chute snapped open and my balls took a whack
As the harness jolted right up my crack
My eyes stopped watering and I admired the surrounding
The views from the sky were truly astounding
As we cruised to the earth I took one last look around
Floated down like a feather and was back on the ground
What an exhiliarating buzz, an absolute blast
Just a shame that the journey was over so fast.

Viviens La Paz - 16/6/07

On the worldwide drug scale Columbia tops the list
In terms of policing La Paz has been missed
Viviens bar is as weird as they come
Where else will they serve up cocaine with your rum
Vivien herself was passed out on the couch
After years of abuse as her face seemed to vouch
Driving past from outside you would never know it was there
This dungeon of depravity where no-one has a care
As you enter through the kitchen watch your head on the door
It´s like America in prohibition back in 1924
The decor looks like it´s the same it was then
There´s no question you´re now in a dark, dingy den
But as with places like this there´s a warmth hard to explain
The people are real and you can feel their pain
This is their relief from their toils on the street
People on the outside you would never wish to meet
But inside Viviens house every punter is the same
Escaping reality playing life as a game
The odds here are high and everyone will score
With the goal to get high and the playing field pure
It´s low key boogienights without the glamour and porn
Rollergirl has no skates and her features are worn
The glitterball on the dance floor creaks on it´s hinges
Like an ageing addict after one too many binges
As time fades away in this huge powdering room
The zombies drift out and away from the tomb
Viviens has done it´s service for one more long night
And the underbelly of La Paz can continue their fight.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Buenos Aires week of madness part two

After the thrills of La Boca and the spillages on our crazy tequila session it was time to step slightly into the culture zone and be as one with the locals. So with ponchos and gumboots at the ready we headed off to a Gaucho ranch to join the cowboys and ensure that Caz could fulfil her lifelong wish of getting me to sit on a bloody horse.

Now I am not proud and I have no shame. I won´t lie to you I was absolutely bricking it as the minibus made it´s way towards El Gauchos stables. This was quite possibly the longest 90 minutes of my life. In case you don´t know I am allergic to horses, well cats and horses to be precise. If you ever read my passport or any medical forms I have had to fill in you would know that under allergies, cats and horses make a regular appearance. People have told me that apparently it´s medical allergies you are supposed to mention but you can never be too careful my friends.

Anyway back to the ranch and we arrived there along with about 50 other random tourists and were ushered into the gates. Immediately I spotted the enemy, about 50 dosile looking nags plodding aimlessly around a field under what appeared to be some kind of drug induced semi coma. I had popped my anti histamine pill half an hour earlier and Caz has given me the instructions for successful allergy avoidance. The fear of turning into the elephant man was being slightly outweighed now by the fact that I had to go and mount one of these beasts although there was no turning back, especially as I spotted a 20 stone American grandad eagerly mounting a poor little grey nag, who almost buckled under the weight of the double cheeseburger munching yank. If he´s getting on then there´s not a chance i´m wimping out!

The moment had come and out I stepped, swung my leg over and mounted the vicious beast. I know that horses can apparently sense fear so I tried to pretend that this was as natural a thing as possible to me. However old Red Rum was wise to my beginner status and gave a couple of sharp tugs on the reins. Not to be outdone, although clueless as to what to do, I tugged him back (not like that) and he seemed to settle slightly. After that it went like a breeze and after a quick plod down the hill I had the beast into a trot, canter and then a blistering gallop through the meadow with the wind blowing through my hair and ´Take my Breath Away´ blasting out in the background.Well maybe it wasn´t quite like that. I sat on the thing and it followed all the other nags around a field before he dropped me back at the start about 5 minutes later. The highlight of the trip was when it tried to bite another horses arse much to the annoyance of the other fella. However it mattered not for I had successfully ridden a horse and stayed on, my head hadn´t turned into Elephant man status and another box had been ticked. As I dismounted the tamed beast I felt like I had won the Grand National and slightly over zealously almost stacked it when my foot stayed in the stirrup. Not the coolest dismount but just about managed to keep it together. Get in there horse whispering Freel jockey! And I must say seeing all 6 of us on horseback with some rather fetching helmets was worth the experience in itself!

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Away with the fairies in Crazy Buenos Aires - Part One!

So it finally happened and there´s no bloody hiding it, I hit the big 30 and am now officially an old bugger! Mind you I don´t care cos at least 90 per cent of the people i´ve met in the last 9 months have thought I was about 25 so I´m happy to convince myself that they weren´t just being polite.

The day itself was spent in Santiago and Em had managed to persuade the hostel to throw a BBQ, had put banners and balloons all over the place and got plentiful stocks of vino and cerveza involved. In true spirit we polished off bucketloads and partied long and hard into the early hours. I also smoked my last ever twenty cigarettes and as of now 11 days later am still holding firm and the voice is even starting to come back. I am eating like a Sumo wrestler though and need to get my rotund ass into gear quick sharp.

The main event of the week was the arrival of Caz, Joker and Smithers who were flying into Buenos Aires on 2nd June for a recipe of madness mixed with carnage and a sprinkling of culture for good measure. I was so excited I peed myself twice and when they eventually rolled into town at midnight the session was on, although it appeared that Smithers and Joker had started 12 hours earlier and night one ended early doors when Smithers inadvertently dropped his red wine on Caz´s new cream jacket at the bar of the whorehouse. Oh well time for them to sleep off the jetlag before getting stuck in the next day!

Big Si and Emily were also present for the weeks festivities and the Sunday night saw the official belated Bday celebration for moi. We chose the classy Kilkenny bar for our shenanigans and armed with a pack of cards and some newly learned drinking games proceeded to speed drink our way into absolute oblivion within about 3 hours. When Smithers turned up with a bottle of tequila (never one for half measures!) Joker could hold no more and disappeared to the porcelain pot for the next hour. Big Si was next to go after going toe to toe with Smithers in the Tequila ring and me and Caz and Smithers were soon to be seen swinging each other around an imaginary dance floor, their rendition of the tango not your textbook South American routine! Everyone dispersed their own seperate ways and I managed to do a Freel and find another bar, lose my jacket, break my camera and kneecap and refind my hotel at 7am - a successful night all round.
This pretty much ruled out the next day although we did manage to book a bevy of activities for the week ahead including trips to Uruguay, an Argentinian ranch, a Tango Night, plentiful fine restaurants and the highlight of the week, the 2nd leg of the semi final of the South American version of the Champions League with Boca taking on some Colombian druglords who had managed to bag the first leg 3-1. It was a tough ask but La Bocas crowd is renowned for being one of the most vociferous the world has seen and this promised to be a night where football history could be witnessed, if only Caz and Emily could get their minds around the offside rule.

La Boca is one of the dodgiest areas in BA. We went there the day before the game as it is also a bit of an off the beaten track tourist spot filled with bright, colourful houses, shops and market stalls, maradona impersonators and pickpockets, all in the shadow of the concrete ampitheatre where such great footballing gladiators have plied their trade. The atmosphere on the night of the match was undescribable. The thick fog pouring in from the coast only added to the tension and expectation of the tie and everybody was nervously excited as they slowly filled the stands. With kick off delayed an hour by the fog we had the chance to take in the landscape that we had become part of and became entranced by the melodies continuously spilling from the Argentinian choir of fans.

When the game did eventually get underway the singing just got louder and was a constant thorn in the oppositions side throughout the 90 minutes, only pausing at half time to allow the cheerleaders their moment of glory. The football itself was sharp, concise and the touch of the players exquisite. From the outset Boca took the game to the Colombians although both sides hit the bar in the first 5 minutes. Just before half time the deadlock was broken when Riquelme curled an unbelievable free kick inside the far post. Boca still needed one more goal to go through though and the game was perfectly poised at the interval.

We were all completely hooked. The crowd were bonkers and this had made Cazza slightly delirious. Both myself and her had purchased scarves and become Bocas brand new super fans and were even pretending to know the songs at this point. The stadium was bouncing and there was no doubt in any minds that Boca were going to win. Out they came for part deux and immediately hit the post again. They then missed an open goal that my nana could´ve slotted and the crowd collectively held its head in its hands. The fog streamed in and the referee consulted his linesmen. I mean we could only see a sixth of the pitch from where we were at this point but somehow Riquelme convinced them that it was all fine and play continued. One minute later Boca got a corner and as the ball appeared through the mist it connected with Palermos head and put Boca 2 nil up. Madness ensued and one of the Boca stands decided to set the stadium on fire. Flares lit the crisp evening sky and our stand felt as though it was nearing collapse under the weight of the bouncing Boca-ites!

Boca added a third before the end and ran out worthy winners. A brilliant night enjoyed by all and the songs of the fans rang on in the ears for days to come. We had witnessed a sensational sporting event and I have been fortunate to witness a fair few on my travels but this was by far and away numero uno. The Lions in New Zealand, England winning the Ashes, Spurs at the Millenium Stadium, Blackpool at Bloomfield Road, but not one of these could compare to this and all 6 of us knew that we had been part of something very special. To share it with friends as well just made the whole thing even more spectacular. Vamos La Boca!

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

The Long Road To La Paz

Disorganised chaos, these guys don´t have a clue
We´ve been sat here an hour and no-one knows what to do
The last half hour has been musical chairs
Faces filled with confusion, a blanket of stares
It seems that some dozy twat is in the wrong seat
And after blabbering in Spanish he´s finally got to his feet
But there´s still no movement on this stone aged machine
And flicking through the lonely planet I now know what they mean
It takes me back to Asia all this palava on the bus
It not that fucking tricky I don´t understand the fuss
The thing is half empty just grab another spot
It´s hardly rocket science they´re just a fucking simple lot
So eventually we´re off on this 20 hour trip
And from the bumps in the road there´ll be no chance of kip
Now the numpty in front has thrown back his chair
And my nose is 3 inches from his clearly unwashed hair
I fucking hate these buses, it´s gonna be a long night
But for 3 quid fifty I can hardly start a fight
So i´ll wind my neck in and stop whinging away
And in 20 hours time all will again be OK.

La Paz - Arrival

A chaotic abyss splattered with construction
The Bolivian mecca if you´re seeking destruction
After hours of nothing on a shitty old bus
You start to wonder why they make such a fuss
It comes out of nowhere and you look down to the right
And what meets you below is an incredible sight
Like a ship being dragged into the eye of the storm
As you wind your way in the city starts to form
From above it´s like a black sky littered with stars
The world´s highest city could be somewhere on mars
This comic book place comes to life on the street
But you have to be wary and sure on your feet
The shopfront glistens with women in traditional dress
Their stalls awash with colour designed to impress
As the sun goes to sleep the shadows emerge
To feast on the tourists all so eager to splurge
But although the scent of danger is never far from the nose
It´s part and parcel of La Paz and it keeps you on your toes